bijoux sur mesure bruxelles Archives - Saskia Shutt

Bespoke Cufflinks: Refined Expression

Saskia Shutt — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 19:43:28 +0000

Jewellery comes in countless forms. Rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets have long held a prominent place in our wardrobes and our imaginations. Yet among these familiar objects sits a piece of jewellery that often goes unnoticed: the cufflink.

For centuries, cufflinks have occupied a unique position between adornment and function. They fasten the cuffs of a shirt, yet they also offer an opportunity for self-expression, craftsmanship and individuality. Despite this, cufflinks are often overlooked in contemporary jewellery conversations.

As a designer and goldsmith, bespoke cufflinks are among the pieces I most enjoy creating. When I worked in the United Kingdom, I made them regularly. Since moving to Belgium, however, commissions have become far less frequent. Here, cufflinks often seem confined to two worlds: the boardroom and the wedding ceremony. They are associated with high-end business suits, formal occasions and traditional dress codes.

While there is certainly a place for that, I believe cufflinks deserve a far broader audience.

For those who do not typically wear jewellery, cufflinks can be the perfect introduction to personal adornment. They offer a subtle way to express character without the visibility of a necklace or the permanence of a ring. A carefully chosen pair can transform an outfit, adding a detail that reveals personality, taste and confidence.

What fascinates me most is how cufflinks challenge our assumptions about jewellery itself. Many people still view them primarily as a men’s accessory. I have never shared that view.

Cufflinks are wonderfully gender-fluid. They can be worn by anyone who wishes to elevate an outfit, make a statement or simply enjoy the pleasure of wearing beautifully crafted objects. Jewellery has always evolved alongside fashion, and today’s approach to personal style is more fluid and individual than ever before.

Jewellery That Reflects Values

Today, many people associate cufflinks exclusively with formalwear. I see them differently. I see them as miniature works of art, capable of telling stories about the people who wear them and the values they choose to support.

For me, creating bespoke cufflinks begins long before I sit at the workbench. It begins with a conscious choice about materials.

Every precious metal carries a story. Too often, that story remains invisible to the person wearing the finished piece. Yet behind every gram of gold or silver are landscapes, communities and human lives.

This is why I choose to work with Fairmined precious metals wherever possible. Fairmined certification supports artisanal and small-scale mining communities that are committed to responsible environmental practices, safe working conditions and fair economic opportunities. It creates a direct connection between the wearer and the people whose skill and labour brought the metal into existence.

When a client commissions a pair of bespoke cufflinks, they are not simply choosing an accessory. They are choosing values. They are choosing to honour craftsmanship at every stage of the supply chain, from the miner who carefully extracts the precious metal from the earth to the goldsmith who transforms it into a finished piece.

In a world where products are increasingly disconnected from their origins, I believe luxury should mean something more. True luxury should respect both people and planet. It should celebrate human skill, preserve natural resources and create a positive impact that extends far beyond aesthetics.

A pair of cufflinks may seem like a small object, yet it can embody a remarkable story of connection, responsibility and conscious choice.

Breaking the Rules of How Cufflinks Are Worn

I regularly wear a large pair of four-leaf clover cufflinks myself. After designing the original clover motif for a project in early 2026, I loved the design so much that I created an oversized pair for my own collection. Crafted in Fairmined silver and set with a sea-green sapphire sourced from the Ilakaka mining community in Madagascar, they embody everything I value in jewellery: beauty, craftsmanship, storytelling and responsible sourcing.

Some people are surprised to see cufflinks worn outside formal settings. Yet I happily wear mine with a white double-cuff blouse, even in summer. In fact, I specifically chose a short-sleeved blouse with double cuffs because I wanted to challenge the notion that cufflinks belong exclusively on traditional long-sleeved shirts. Most cufflink shirts available today are designed with long sleeves, but why should they be?

To me, cufflinks deserve to be seen and enjoyed throughout the year. Wearing oversized four-leaf clover cufflinks on a short-sleeved blouse may seem unconventional, but that is precisely the point. Jewellery should invite creativity, not conformity.

Fashion is becoming increasingly individual and expressive. The rules that once dictated who could wear certain pieces and how they should be styled are rapidly disappearing. I believe cufflinks deserve to evolve alongside that movement.

A Rich History Waiting to Be Rediscovered

Interestingly, brooches have enjoyed a remarkable revival on red carpets in recent years. During the 2025 and 2026 awards seasons, actors and celebrities embraced brooches at major events such as the Oscars and Golden Globes, transforming them from historical curiosities into contemporary statements of style.

Watching this resurgence unfold, I often wondered why cufflinks were not enjoying a similar moment.

Both brooches and cufflinks share a fascinating history. They have moved in and out of fashion for centuries, adapting to changing tastes and cultural expectations. According to an article on Tailors World, the birth of the cufflink probably dates back to the time of Louis XIV in France, when decorative fastenings began replacing ribbons and ties used to secure shirt cuffs. By the eighteenth century, cufflinks had become symbols of refinement among royalty and the aristocracy. Later, the Industrial Revolution made them more widely accessible, allowing their popularity to spread far beyond noble circles and into everyday wardrobes.

Yet somewhere along the way, cufflinks became trapped by convention.

Their rich heritage became overshadowed by assumptions that they belonged only in formal settings. I believe it is time to rediscover them—not as relics of the past, but as contemporary jewellery with limitless creative potential.

Craftsmanship in Every Detail

Perhaps my perspective comes from the way I make them.

When I create a pair of bespoke cufflinks, I do not simply focus on the visible front. Every element matters. The mechanism itself deserves as much attention as the decorative design.

Unlike mass-produced cufflinks, where ready-made fittings are often soldered onto a decorative face, I handcraft the fittings myself. Some swivel. Others remain fixed. Some provide greater mobility, while others create a firmer, more sculptural connection. Each fitting is individually formed and finished, becoming an integral part of the design rather than an afterthought.

In many ways, this reflects my broader philosophy as a maker. In an era defined by automation and mass production, I find meaning in creating objects that bear the subtle evidence of human hands. Tiny differences emerge from one pair to the next. These nuances are not imperfections. They are signs of craftsmanship.

The attention devoted to the hidden details is every bit as important as the design visible on the surface.

Stories Worn on the Cuff

That attention to detail allows every commission to become deeply personal.

One particularly memorable project involved a gentleman who commissioned a ring and matching cufflinks. The ring combined white and yellow gold remodelled from his own jewellery and featured a heart-cut garnet nestled within a gold setting. To complement it, I created a pair of cufflinks in Fairmined silver with Fairmined gold accents, each set with matching heart-shaped garnets.

The finished pieces reflected not only his personal style but also his values. Through the choice of Fairmined precious metals, the jewellery supported responsible mining practices, improved working conditions and the empowerment of artisanal mining communities.

The cufflinks became more than adornment. They became a reflection of identity, memory and purpose.

Another commission took a very different direction.

For Guberna, I created bespoke cufflinks presented to retiring and departing CEOs as a gesture of appreciation for their years of leadership and dedication. Rather than engraving a logo onto an existing design, I transformed the company logo itself into a pair of cufflinks. Crafted in Fairmined silver, the logo became a wearable symbol of the organisation and the individual’s contribution to it.

Rather than offering a generic token of gratitude, the organisation chose to commission objects with lasting value. In doing so, they also supported responsible sourcing, artisanal mining communities and greater gender equality within the mining sector.

These cufflinks carried a story far richer than their elegant appearance might initially suggest.

The Future of Bespoke Cufflinks

Stories like these remind me why bespoke jewellery remains relevant.

We live in a world saturated with products. Yet people continue to seek objects that feel personal, authentic and meaningful. A bespoke cufflink offers all of these qualities. It can commemorate a milestone, celebrate a relationship, acknowledge an achievement or simply express an aspect of one’s personality.

The possibilities are endless.

Double cuffs need not remain confined to traditional shirts. Contemporary fashion offers exciting opportunities to reinterpret them. Long sleeves can feature exaggerated cuffs that draw attention to elaborate cufflinks. Short-sleeved garments can incorporate double-cuff details in unexpected ways. Cufflinks can be paired with matching brooches, tie pins or lapel pins to create a cohesive and distinctive personal style.

The beauty of bespoke design lies precisely in that freedom. There are no rules dictating what a cufflink should look like or who should wear it.

As jewellery continues to evolve, I believe cufflinks deserve to reclaim their place within contemporary design. They possess all the qualities that modern clients increasingly seek: individuality, craftsmanship, sustainability, storytelling and conscious luxury.

A Small Object With a Powerful Story

Perhaps the greatest luxury today is not simply owning something beautiful. It is owning something meaningful.

A pair of bespoke cufflinks may appear to be a small detail, but often it is the smallest details that leave the strongest impression. They accompany gestures, conversations and celebrations. They quietly reveal something about the person wearing them.

For those willing to look beyond convention, cufflinks offer far more than a refined finishing touch. They become an opportunity to wear a story—one shaped by craftsmanship, conscious sourcing and respect for human dignity.

From the artisanal miner who responsibly extracts the precious metal, to the goldsmith who carefully shapes every detail by hand, each pair reflects a chain of people whose skills deserve to be valued and celebrated.

Perhaps that is the future of luxury. Not simply owning something beautiful, but choosing something beautiful that honours both people and planet.

And perhaps it is time for cufflinks to step back into the spotlight.

The post Bespoke Cufflinks: Refined Expression appeared first on Saskia Shutt.

Mourning Jewellery: Love and Remembrance

Saskia Shutt — Sat, 16 May 2026 12:13:19 +0000

Grief changes us. It arrives quietly for some, suddenly for others, but when we lose someone we love, life never quite returns to the way it was before. The world continues moving, while a part of us stands still, holding memories, conversations, gestures and moments that suddenly become precious beyond words. Throughout history, people search for ways to keep the memory of a loved one close. Photographs, letters, heirlooms and rituals all become vessels for remembrance. Jewellery holds a special place amongst these objects because it is intimate.

Jewellery rests against the skin, is worn daily, touched absentmindedly, held during difficult moments and carried through life. Mourning jewellery exists within this deeply human need to remember. Creating bespoke mourning jewellery pieces for clients wishing to carry the ashes of a loved one — or sometimes the ashes of a beloved pet — is part of my work. Each commission is profoundly moving for me as a maker. These are not simply decorative objects. They are deeply personal pieces created out of love, grief, memory and connection. There is something incredibly powerful about transforming sorrow into something tangible and beautiful. A ring, pendant or small vessel becomes more than jewellery. It becomes a companion through grief.

Jewellery as a Companion Through Grief

We all experience grief differently. There is no correct way to mourn and no timeline that truly defines bereavement. Some people speak openly about loss, while others carry their grief quietly and privately. Some find comfort in rituals and traditions. Others seek solace in objects, places or gestures that help them feel connected to the person they have lost. People often say that time heals. I believe time softens certain edges of grief, but love does not disappear. Memories remain with us and often continue shaping our lives long after someone has gone.

This is one reason mourning jewellery can hold such emotional significance. A piece of jewellery containing ashes allows someone to carry a physical connection to the person or animal they love. It offers closeness. Comfort. Presence. Many clients who contact me want something discreet, personal and meaningful. A small hidden compartment. A subtle vessel close to the heart. Something intimate that belongs only to them.There is great tenderness in this.

When I create these pieces, I am always aware that I am being entrusted with something sacred. Ashes are not merely a material. They represent a relationship, a life, a shared history. Often, the conversations surrounding these commissions are emotional. Clients speak about a parent, partner, child, friend or cherished pet. They speak about memories, habits, humour, companionship and absence. Through these conversations, the jewellery slowly becomes a portrait of love. In many ways, the making process itself becomes part of the grieving process.

A Memorial Pendant Carrying Ashes

One of the mourning jewellery commissions that has stayed with me most deeply was a minimalist white gold pendant designed to contain the ashes of a loved one.

At first glance, the pendant appears simple: a clean square tube pendant suspended from a chain. Yet behind that simplicity lies extraordinary symbolism and craftsmanship.

I first created the square tube in white gold and soldered it shut at one end. I then carefully sawed 15mm from the top section to create the lid. After drilling the piece so the chain could pass directly through the tube, I soldered both the top and bottom closed.

At this stage, the pendant vessel was ready to receive the ashes.

Once the ashes had been carefully placed inside, I soldered the lid permanently onto the body of the pendant. I then polished and textured the finish by hand in order to obscure the solder seam completely, allowing the piece to feel seamless and whole.

The reverse of the pendant carries a personal engraving honouring the loved one whose ashes rest inside.

What moves me about pieces like this is their quiet intimacy.

Nobody looking at the pendant would immediately know what it contains. Yet for the wearer, it becomes profoundly meaningful — a discreet memorial pendant carrying memory, grief, love and presence close to the body every day.

When Did People Start Putting Ashes Into Jewellery?

The tradition of placing ashes into jewellery is actually relatively modern when compared to older forms of mourning jewellery.

Historically, cremation itself was less common in many Western societies for centuries, particularly throughout Christian Europe where burial was traditionally preferred. Because of this, earlier mourning jewellery usually incorporated other forms of remembrance, such as miniature portraits, woven hair, inscriptions or lockets containing fabric, photographs or tiny keepsakes.

It was only during the late 19th and especially the 20th century that cremation gradually became more widely accepted across Europe and North America. As cremation became increasingly common, memorial jewellery naturally evolved alongside changing funeral and remembrance practices.

The modern practice of incorporating ashes into jewellery began gaining visibility during the late 20th century and became far more widespread during the early 2000s.

In many ways, however, the emotional intention behind ashes in jewellery is not modern at all.

Although historical mourning jewellery did not usually contain ashes, people have long sought ways to preserve a physical connection to those they love. Victorian hair jewellery, for example, served a remarkably similar emotional purpose: creating intimacy, remembrance and closeness through a tangible element of the person who had passed away.

Today, ashes have become a contemporary continuation of this deeply human desire.

Modern mourning jewellery may look more minimalist and discreet than its Victorian predecessors, but the emotional thread remains the same.

We still long to keep our loved ones close.

Wedding Rings as Mourning Jewellery

One of the most touching memorial jewellery commissions I ever created involves a couple renewing their wedding vows for their 25th wedding anniversary.

Rather than buying entirely new wedding rings, they chose to remodel their original rings and incorporate the memory of their daughter, who had passed away several years earlier.

The symbolism behind these rings is deeply moving. Her wedding ring is a celebration of family connection and enduring love through their birthstones. The centre stone, an opal, is her own birthstone. White sapphires, their daughter’s birthstone. And green garnets on the outer edges, her husband’s birthstone.

His ring carries a more discreet form of remembrance. The ring itself is hollow and designed to contain a small amount of their daughter’s ashes. Placing the ashes inside the ring, I soldered it shut beneath an engraved star.

Both rings carry the same engraved star motif. For the couple, the star symbolised their daughter.

I often think about these rings because they beautifully demonstrate how mourning jewellery can become integrated into everyday life and ongoing love stories. These were not pieces created only to mourn loss. They were also created to celebrate marriage, family, continuity and remembrance.

The Symbolism of Ashes in Jewellery

Ashes carry profound symbolism. Representing continuity rather than finality. A physical trace of someone who is deeply loved. Incorporating ashes into jewellery can therefore feel comforting and grounding. The act itself is often incredibly emotional. Many clients experience this moment for the very first time when we carefully open the urn together to transfer a small amount of ashes into the jewellery. Often, there is uncertainty beforehand. People do not know what to expect. I gently describe the ashes as resembling a coral beach. Fine grey sand interspersed with pale fragments that remind me of dried white coral.

Hopefully, this description helps create calmness and serenity around a moment that can initially feel overwhelming.

Handeling these moments with immense care, sensitivity and respect is important. Although, not all clients want to be present during the transferring of the ashes. Sometimes, preferring to open the urn in the privacy of their own home and given me a tiny box with a little of the ashes for me to insert into the jewel.

Clients sometimes arrive feeling uncertain about whether they should proceed with a commission. They may have held onto ashes for years without knowing what to do with them. The jewellery becomes a place for remembrance. Rather than ashes remaining hidden away in an urn or cupboard, they become integrated into everyday life. A pendant is touched while walking. A ring catches the light during ordinary moments. A necklace is worn during significant milestones and quiet days alike.

In this way, mourning jewellery can create continuity between past and present. I also believe there is something beautiful in creating jewellery from love rather than from loss alone. Although these pieces emerge from grief, they are ultimately about connection.

Mourning Jewellery for Beloved Pets

Only recently did I receive my very first commission to create mourning jewellery containing the ashes of a beloved pet. The piece was commissioned in memory of a puppy who passed away at only three months old due to a genetic illness.

Even writing these words still move me. The grief surrounding the loss of an animal companion is often deeply underestimated, especially when that life feels heartbreakingly short. Anyone who loves a pet understands that these relationships are real, profound and emotionally significant. Animals become part of our daily rituals, our homes and our emotional world. Their companionship is quiet, loyal and unconditional.

When they are gone, the absence can feel enormous. Creating this memorial pendant reminds me once again that mourning jewellery is ultimately about love and attachment, regardless of whether that bond is with a partner, parent, child, friend or animal companion.

For the owner, this small pendant becomes a way to keep her puppy close to her. A gentle and discreet reminder of a life that, although brief, carries immense love.

I believe memorial jewellery for pets will become increasingly meaningful for many people because our relationships with animals are often deeply intertwined with comfort, companionship and emotional support.

The Emotional Responsibility of the Maker

Creating mourning jewellery carries a particular emotional responsibility. Every commission requires trust. Clients are sharing vulnerable stories and entrusting me with deeply personal materials connected to someone they love. This means the process must be approached with sensitivity, care and respect.

One memorial jewellery commission that remains especially personal to me was the creation of a heart pendant containing the hair of a young woman named Nathalie, whose fight against cancer ended in November 2018.

Nathalie was not only the person being remembered — she had also been one of my clients.

Over the years, I had remodelled a few jewellery pieces for her. The final commission I created for Nathalie herself was a pair of gold ginkgo leaf earrings.

She had commissioned them in celebration of the nomination of her beloved “Snuiterboom” — the Ginkgo Biloba tree in Egmont Park in Brussels — for the “Tree of the Year” awards in 2016.

The commission now feels especially poignant to me because the ginkgo tree itself symbolises resilience, endurance and memory.

The leftover gold from creating the earrings later become part of the memorial heart pendant containing some of Nathalie’s hair. That continuity makes the piece especially emotional to create.

The pendant was commissioned by Nathalie’s parents as a Christmas gift for Nathalie’s daughter — a deeply personal gesture of love, remembrance and family connection across generations.

Nathalie was also the founder of Talismanneke, a charity supporting children and families affected by cancer. Including this part of her story feels important to me because the pendant is not only about grief, but also about honouring the kindness, generosity and legacy she leaves behind.

What matters most to me when creating mourning jewellery is that the final piece feels authentic to the person being remembered and meaningful to the person wearing it.

Mourning jewellery should never feel generic. The emotional connection is what gives the piece its value. I often think about how jewellery accompanies people through the most important moments of life: celebrations, commitments, milestones, family histories and memories. Mourning jewellery is part of this continuum.

Becoming an heirloom not because of financial value, but because of emotional significance.

Creating Beauty For Memory

Whenever I create mourning jewellery, I am reminded of how powerful jewellery can be.

Across cultures and throughout history, rituals surrounding death and remembrance have helped people process grief. Funerals, ceremonies, memorial objects and acts of remembrance all create space for mourning and reflection. Jewellery can become part of these rituals.

There is comfort in wearing something intentionally created to honour someone.

Some people wear mourning jewellery every day. Others reserve it for moments when they particularly need closeness or comfort. Some eventually pass these pieces down through generations, carrying stories and memories forward.

I find it fascinating that jewellery can hold both permanence and emotion in such a quiet way.

Unlike photographs displayed publicly, mourning jewellery is often private. It may not be recognisable to others. The meaning is usually carried silently by the wearer. There is something deeply intimate about that. A hidden vessel. A secret memory. A quiet act of remembrance.

It becomes a quiet reminder that although someone may no longer be physically present, they remain woven into our lives. And perhaps that is what mourning jewellery has always represented throughout history.

Every mourning jewellery commission begins with a conversation. If you would like to discuss creating a bespoke memorial piece for someone close to your heart, you are welcome to book an appointment or contact me directly.

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Custom Wedding Rings with Meaning

Saskia Shutt — Sun, 15 Mar 2026 12:17:22 +0000

Handmade wedding rings in platinum – hers is set with seven rubies – photograph: Saskia Shutt

Fairmined Gold, Remodelling Heirlooms, and the Provenance of Love

Spring is often described as a season of renewal. In nature, dormant plants begin to grow again, trees form new buds, slowly shifting the landscape from winter stillness to movement and life. It is a quiet but powerful reminder that growth rarely happens suddenly. Instead, unfolding through patience, care, and the right conditions.

This rhythm of renewal offers a meaningful parallel to the values behind responsibly sourced gold and the symbolism of marriage. Both are rooted in continuity, responsibility, and the long-term view. A marriage begins with a promise that grows over time, just as responsible mining practices aim to protect ecosystems and communities so that future generations can continue living and working from the same land.

When couples begin planning their wedding, they often focus on the visible elements of the day: the celebration, the location, the gathering of family and friends. Yet the wedding rings they exchange become something much more enduring. Long after the wedding day itself has passed, these small circles of gold remain present in daily life, quietly accompanying every shared experience.

For this reason, many couples today are looking beyond the surface of their jewellery. They want to know where the gold comes from, who has worked with it, and what values it represents. Choosing custom-made wedding rings allows them to engage with these questions in a meaningful way.

The Importance of Provenance in Wedding Jewellery

Provenance has become an increasingly important concept in jewellery. It refers to the traceable history of a material: its origin, its journey, and the people involved along the way. In an industry where supply chains can easily become invisible, provenance restores a sense of transparency. It reconnects the finished object with the places and communities that contributed to its creation.

For wedding rings, this awareness adds another dimension to the symbolism already present in the circular form. The ring no longer represents only the union between two individuals; it also reflects the network of relationships that made the piece possible.

Working directly with a goldsmiths allows couples to experience this process in a tangible way. Instead of selecting a ring that has appeared anonymously in a display case, they become part of the creation itself. The design develops through conversation, sketches, and careful decisions about materials and form.

Each ring therefore begins long before the wedding ceremony. Its story unfolds in the workshop, at the bench, through the transformation of raw gold into a finished piece of jewellery.

Fairmined Gold and the Value of Responsible Sourcing

For couples who wish to connect their wedding rings to broader ethical values, Fairmined gold offers a meaningful path.

Fairmined certification was created to support artisanal and small-scale mining communities that commit to responsible environmental practices, fair labour conditions, and transparent production. These mining organisations work under strict standards designed to reduce ecological impact while improving social and economic stability within their communities.

The gold extracted under these conditions carries a traceable origin. Its journey from mine to refinery and eventually to the goldsmith remains documented and transparent.

In this context, a wedding ring made from Fairmined gold becomes more than a beautiful object. It becomes part of a story that includes miners working in safer conditions, communities investing in their future, and landscapes that are treated with greater care.

There is something particularly fitting about linking these values to the symbolism of marriage. Just as a partnership between two people is built on trust and responsibility, responsibly sourced materials reflect a commitment to fairness and respect within the wider human community.

Couples who choose this path often appreciate knowing that the gold in their rings supports positive change far beyond the jewellery itself. The ring becomes a small but tangible expression of shared values.

For those interested in understanding the process more deeply, it can be fascinating to explore how Fairmined gold travels from mining community to workshop, and how traceability is maintained at each stage of refinement and crafting.

Crafting Wedding Rings in the Workshop

Creating custom wedding rings is a very different experience from buying ready-made jewellery.

The process usually begins with a conversation. Couples describe the rings they imagine wearing every day: sometimes minimal and understated, sometimes textured or gemset. Oftan inspired by personal stories.

From these conversations, designs begin to take shape. Small adjustments to the curve of a ring, the width of the band, or the surface finish can dramatically change how the piece feels when worn. These decisions may seem subtle, yet they define the personality of the final object.

The transformation from raw metal to finished ring unfolds gradually in the workshop. Gold is alloyed, rolled, shaped, soldered, filed, and polished by hand. Each step leaves a trace of the maker’s work.

When couples visit during this process, they often gain a new appreciation for the craftsmanship involved. The rings are not anonymous products but carefully constructed pieces that require patience and precision.

This connection between maker and wearer becomes part of the ring’s identity. The object carries the memory of its creation as well as the promise it symbolises.

For couples who choose Fairmined gold, this moment of transformation also connects the workbench to the mining communities where the material originated. The journey from landscape to workshop to wedding ceremony becomes part of a single narrative.

Remodelling Family Gold: Preserving Memory Through Jewellery

Another path toward meaningful wedding rings begins not in a mine but within a family. Many people possess pieces of jewellery that are rarely worn but impossible to discard. An inherited ring, a damaged bracelet, or a chain tucked away in a jewellery box may carry emotional significance even if its design no longer suits contemporary taste.

Remodelling offers a way to transform these objects while preserving their sentimental value.

The process begins by examining the existing pieces and discussing their stories. Sometimes the gold comes from a grandparent’s ring. Sometimes several small items belonging to different relatives are brought together. Each fragment holds a memory, a moment in a family’s history. The gold is then melted and refined, becoming raw material once again. From this point onward, it can be shaped into entirely new forms: wedding rings that reflect the style and preferences of the couple who will wear them.

Although the design changes, the material itself remains the same. The atoms of gold that once formed an earlier piece of jewellery continue their journey in a new shape. There is something deeply moving in this transformation. The past does not disappear; it becomes part of a new beginning.

Gold and the Continuity of Generations

Gold is uniquely suited to this kind of transformation. Melting, reusing and repurposing endlessly without losing its quality.

This physical property mirrors the emotional continuity that jewellery often represents. Passing down family pieces, altering, and even reinventing them, as they move through generations.

Remodelling old gold into wedding rings, therefore becomes more than a contemporary object. It becomes a bridge between past and future.

The ring may carry the memory of a grandmother’s jewellery or fragments of different family histories brought together in one form. Over time, it may itself become an heirloom, eventually passed to another generation with new stories attached.

In this sense, jewellery does not remain static. It evolves with the people who wear it.

Remodelling allows couples to honour that continuity while still creating something that feels entirely their own.

Two Forms of Provenance

At first glance, Fairmined gold and remodelled gold may appear to represent two very different approaches to jewellery making. Yet both share a common principle: the importance of knowing where materials come from.

With Fairmined gold, provenance refers to traceable sourcing and the ethical standards upheld by mining communities. The story of the material begins in a specific landscape and within a specific community.

With remodelled gold, provenance becomes personal and familial. The story of the material begins in a jewellery box, a memory, or a piece that has travelled quietly through generations.

Both forms of provenance create connection. They anchor the finished ring in a history that extends beyond the moment of purchase.

For couples preparing to marry, this awareness can make their rings feel deeply meaningful. The gold they exchange does not exist in isolation; it carries stories, relationships, and responsibilities.

Wedding Rings That Reflect Shared Values

The choice of wedding rings often becomes one of the most personal decisions within the entire wedding process.

Some couples feel drawn to the ethical transparency of Fairmined gold. Others are moved by the emotional resonance of transforming family jewellery. Many discover that these two paths reflect similar values: respect for people, care for the environment, and appreciation for heritage.

Custom craftsmanship allows these values to shape the final piece. The rings become expressions of the couple’s identity as much as symbols of their partnership.

They also become objects that will accompany daily life for decades. Over time, the gold will gather small marks and traces of wear, subtle reminders of the experiences shared while wearing it.

These quiet changes only deepen the meaning of the ring.

A Beginning That Continues

Choosing wedding rings is often one of the quieter moments in the journey toward a wedding. It happens away from the larger celebrations and planning lists, usually during a conversation that allows a couple to reflect on what truly matters to them.

For some, that conversation leads to the discovery of responsibly sourced materials such as Fairmined gold. For others, it begins with a small box of inherited jewellery that has been resting in a drawer for many years. Sometimes it is simply the desire to create rings that feel personal rather than chosen from a display.

Whatever the starting point may be, the process of designing wedding rings can become a meaningful experience in itself. It offers the opportunity to reflect on values, on origins, and on the stories that materials carry.

Working together during the consultaion allows those ideas to gradually take shape. Rings evolve through sketches, discussions, and the careful transformation of gold into objects that will accompany everyday life for many years.

If you are beginning to think about your own wedding rings and feel drawn to ethical sourcing, Fairmined gold, or the possibility of remodelling family jewellery, you are always welcome to explore these possibilities further. Sometimes it begins simply with a conversation and the curiosity to see what a ring with a story might look like.

The post Custom Wedding Rings with Meaning appeared first on Saskia Shutt.

Valentine’s Day: Love, Giving, and Jewellery with Integrity

Saskia Shutt — Tue, 20 Jan 2026 10:52:58 +0000

Every year, Valentine’s Day arrives with its familiar symbols — hearts, flowers, declarations of love — and every year I find myself asking the same quiet question: what does it really mean to give a Valentine’s gift? Beyond the commercial noise, there is something deeply human about this moment in the calendar. It invites us to pause, to look at the person we love, and to ask how we can honour that relationship in a way that feels sincere, respectful and lasting.

As a goldsmith and designer, I work with materials that carry long histories. Gold and precious stones are not neutral; they are shaped by human hands, extracted from the earth, and transformed through skill and time. For me, Valentine’s Day is an opportunity to bring together several stories that matter deeply to my practice: the origins of this celebration, the ancient tradition of giving, the symbolic power of jewellery, and the responsibility we carry towards both people and planet.

Where Valentine’s Day Comes From: Love Rooted in Courage and Commitment

The origins of Valentine’s Day are complex, layered and, in places, uncertain. Yet this uncertainty is part of what makes the story so human. Long before Valentine’s Day became associated with romance, mid-February was a time of transition. In ancient Rome, the festival of Lupercalia was celebrated around this period, marking fertility, renewal and the slow return of light after winter. It reminds us that this time of year has always been linked to life, hope and continuity.

The name Valentine is most often associated with Saint Valentine, or possibly several figures who shared that name. One of the most enduring legends tells of a priest who secretly married couples despite a ban imposed by the Roman emperor. Whether legend or fact, the story has survived because of what it represents: a belief in love, commitment and personal freedom, even when these come at a cost.

By the Middle Ages, particularly in Europe, Valentine’s Day had evolved into a celebration of romantic love. Written notes, poems and symbolic objects were exchanged as expressions of affection. What touches me about these early traditions is their intimacy. They were not about excess or spectacle, but about intention — choosing words or objects that carried meaning for one specific person.

The Tradition of Giving: A Universal Human Gesture

Giving is one of the oldest human rituals. Across cultures and throughout history, gifts have been offered to mark important moments, to express gratitude, to strengthen bonds and to show care. In its truest form, giving is not about price or status. It is about recognition.

A meaningful gift says: I see you. Value you. I have taken time to choose something that reflects who you are. This is why certain objects — simple, thoughtful, well-made — can hold so much emotional weight.

Valentine’s Day sits at the intersection of love and giving. It invites us to reflect on our relationships and to express affection through gestures that feel personal. When giving becomes automatic or purely symbolic, it loses its power. When it is intentional, it becomes a form of dialogue — a way of speaking without words.

Jewellery as a Symbol of Love and Memory

Jewellery has accompanied humanity for thousands of years. Long before it was decorative, it was symbolic. Rings, amulets and talismans were created to protect, to signify belonging, to mark transitions and to carry meaning across generations.

Even today, jewellery remains one of the most powerful ways to express love. A piece of jewellery is worn close to the body. It becomes part of everyday life, absorbing gestures, memories and emotions. Over time, it can become a quiet witness to a relationship.

This is why jewellery is so often chosen to mark moments of commitment — engagements, anniversaries, and Valentine’s Day. A jewel does not shout. It stays. Accompanies. Lasts.

But this permanence also brings responsibility. If a piece of jewellery is meant to symbolise love, it should be created in a way that respects life rather than harming it.

Jewellery Made with Integrity: Looking Beneath the Beauty

When we look at a finished piece of jewellery, we see its surface: the glow of gold, the brilliance of a stone. What we do not see is the long journey behind it. Gold and precious stones come from the earth through processes that can either respect or damage ecosystems and human lives.

For decades, the jewellery industry has been confronted with difficult realities: environmental degradation, unsafe working conditions and social injustice. These are not abstract issues; they are human stories. For me, working as a goldsmith means choosing to face these realities rather than turning away from them.

Jewellery made with integrity begins with traceability — knowing where materials come from and under what conditions they were extracted. This is why I work with responsibly sourced gold, such as Fairmined gold, which supports small-scale mining communities committed to safer practices, environmental care and fair compensation.

Integrity also lies in craftsmanship. Working slowly, valuing skill, repairing rather than replacing, and creating pieces meant to last are quiet but powerful acts of resistance against disposable culture.

Empowering Mining Communities: Extending the Circle of Care

Behind every gram of responsibly sourced gold are people — miners, families and communities — working in often challenging conditions. Small-scale mining communities possess deep knowledge of their land and resources, yet they are frequently marginalised within global supply chains.

Fair and transparent sourcing can change this. When mining communities are supported through ethical frameworks, they gain access to better safety standards, education, healthcare and environmental restoration. The impact reaches far beyond the mine itself.

Choosing jewellery made with integrity allows love to extend beyond the person receiving the gift. It becomes part of a larger story — one that includes dignity, empowerment and shared responsibility.

Honouring the Person Who Receives the Gift

At the heart of every Valentine’s gift is a person. Honouring them means more than choosing something beautiful. It means paying attention. What do they value? How do they live? What objects feel aligned with who they are?

A thoughtfully chosen piece of jewellery reflects not only love, but respect. It says: I see your individuality. I honour your values. For many people today, concerns about sustainability, ethics and environmental impact are deeply personal. Offering a gift that reflects these concerns can be a powerful expression of care.

Jewellery chosen with intention becomes more than an accessory. It becomes a companion — something that carries meaning rather than noise.

Reimagining Value: Humans, Environment and Time

Our culture often defines value in terms of speed, novelty and volume. Yet the values that truly sustain us — care, patience, responsibility — move at a different rhythm.

Jewellery created with respect for humans and the environment invites us to slow down. It honours the earth not as an endless resource, but as a living system. It recognises human labour as skilled, deserving of dignity and fair reward.

To give such a piece on Valentine’s Day is to make a quiet statement: that love does not need to be rushed, and that beauty does not need to come at the expense of others.

Valentine’s Day as a Conscious Choice

For me, Valentine’s Day is not about grand gestures or perfection. It is about alignment — between what we feel, what we give and what we stand for.

A piece of jewellery made with integrity can hold many layers at once: love for the person who receives it, respect for the people who made it possible, and care for the environment that sustains us all.

As Valentine’s Day approaches, I invite you to look beyond the surface. Ask where things come from. Ask what they stand for. Choose gifts that carry meaning, intention and respect.

If this way of giving resonates with you, take a moment to explore, to ask questions, and to imagine jewellery not just as an object, but as a relationship — one rooted in love, craftsmanship and responsibility. Let this Valentine’s Day be an invitation to give with both heart and conscience.

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A Year of Transformation, Recognition and Responsible Luxury

Saskia Shutt — Sun, 07 Dec 2025 21:11:33 +0000

As the year draws to a close, I find myself pausing for a moment to take in everything that 2025 has brought. The turbulence, the surprises, the opportunities, the challenges, and the many moments of gratitude. The world of precious metals is unpredictable. With gold prices rising steadily and uncertainty shaping the broader landscape. Yet, despite all this, I stepped into the year with intention and conviction. Promising myself that I will embrace change, chasing new possibilities, and continue championing the values that guide my work. Responsibility, transparency, empowerment, and the beauty of ethical craftsmanship.

Looking back now, I realise I did exactly that.

This year became one of profound professional growth, recognition from unexpected places, and meaningful connections with likeminded creators who believe — deeply — in a future where luxury and ethics are inseparable. So, sharing my reflections, allows me to extend my warmest seasonal greetings to you. And inviting you into the journey that made 2025 so unforgettable.

Honoured with the Ecodynamic Label — A Sustainable Milestone

A Recognition of My Environmental Journey

I began the year with extraordinary news. Receiving the Ecodynamic Label from Brussels Environment. Awarded by Alain Maron, Minister for the Cabinet of the Brussels-Capital Region, and Barbara Tracht, Secretary of State. Before receiving the label, my workshop underwent a detailed sustainability audit carried out by 21 Solutions. Examining my practices with care and precision. Their assessment affirming the many adjustments and improvements I made over the years. Feeling genuinely proud when the final approval came through.

The label reflects a journey that spans more than two decades. Sustainability not a trend for me. It is woven into the way I work. Over the past 25 years, gradually replacing traditional chemical products with bio-based alternatives. Rethinking processes and routines, and continuously seeking safer, environmentally conscious methods. For anyone curious, I share more about this ongoing journey at the bottom of the My Story page on my website. My workshop practices are just as important as my resourses.

Why This Label Matters

This recognition is much more than a certificate. Representing a shared belief that craftsmanship can be both beautiful and responsible. Every piece of jewellery begins its life in the earth. I feel a profound duty to honour that origin by treating the environment with respect at every stage of my work.

Receiving the Ecodynamic Label reaffirmed that independent workshops can make a meaningful difference. That sustainability thrives when living it day by day, detail by detail.

A customer commission: A bespoke bracelet

In May I received a commission from someone who wanted to surprise her husband with a bracelet for his birthday. She arrived with ideas she had seen online, and together we honed them into a design that felt personal and meaningful.

This project allowed me to collaborate with Niyona, a talented leather designer whose expertise brought a beautiful dimension to the final piece. One of the challenges was determining the correct wrist size without spoiling the surprise. Despite our careful detective work, the bracelet returned for resizing and alterations — but that is entirely part of the joy of bespoke jewellery. Custom-made work adapts to the wearer, not the other way around.

Sharing My Voice in London — Fair Luxury Conference at the Goldsmiths’ Centre

June brings another meaningful milestone. Speaking at the Fair Luxury Conference, held at The Goldsmiths’ Centre in London. Returning to Fair Luxury as a guest speaker felt both grounding and energising. The conference gathers some of the most thoughtful and committed voices in the ethical jewellery space. Being part of that conversation is an honour.

Sharing my perspectives on reducing my carbon footprint in the workshop, and short supply chains. Themes sitting at the heart of my practice. A room full of jewellers, designers, educators and industry professionals who care deeply about the future of our field. The exchanges that followed are rich, supportive and full of momentum.

I’ve already written a dedicated blog post with my deeper reflections from the day, but it felt important to mention it here as well. The Fair Luxury community has accompanied my journey for many years, and speaking at this year’s event added a layer of connection and purpose that shaped the tone of the months that followed.

A Summer of Surprises — Awards and International Recognition

A Double Nomination that Left Me Speechless

In July, I received what I can only describe as a double whammy of joy and disbelief.

Nomination for the Trends Impact Award in the category Equity and Inclusion.
Finalist for the Sustainability Award at the Jewellery World Award.

I was stunned. As an independent jeweller, walking my own path and working on a small-scale, artisanal rhythm. Never taking recognition for granted. These nominations are like a celebration of the values I refuse to compromise on. Fairness, transparency, and responsibility throughout the supply chain.

A Journey to Hong Kong — And a Seat at the Table

To my great delight, being a finalist allowed me to travel to Hong Kong in September for the official award ceremony. A whirlwind experience I will treasure for years. Also having the honour of joining a panel discussion titled “Luxury Meets Responsibility: Evolving Consumer Values in Fine Jewellery.”

As the only independent jeweller on the panel, I felt proud. And admittedly a little emotional. Sharing my voice among large corporate representatives. Their global reach is impressive, and many of them are driving important industry changes. Standing shoulder-to-shoulder with them. Offering the perspective of an artisan goldsmith who works directly with responsible supply chains, feels truly empowering.

Luxury and Responsibility — A Future We Must Shape Together

During the discussion, emphasising something I wholeheartedly believe:
The future of luxury depends on responsibility.
Not as a marketing slogan. Nor as an optional extra. But as a structural foundation.

Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining (ASM), when guided by strong frameworks like the Fairmined Standard, can offer a sustainable path for the industry. It creates a circular model. Reusing, reporposing and recuperating materials. And crucially, Fairmined premiums going directly back to miners. Ensuring fair wages, clean working conditions, environmental regeneration, and the replacement of toxic chemicals such as mercury and cyanide.

Seeing the interest and engagement from the audience reminding me that consumer values are indeed evolving. And we, as makers, must evolve with them.

A transformation commission: from old gold into a gemstone ring

One of the most technically demanding pieces this year was a ring I remodelled in September. The original 14ct gold was exceptionally tough to work with, and the new opal settings required extremely delicate soldering onto a large chunky ring. It was a project that tested patience, heat control and precision.

Working closely with my setter, we brought the ring to life. The final piece has a striking character — colourful, vibrant and full of movement — and it stands as one of my favourite transformations of the year.

Trends Impact Awards — an inspiring evening at Maison de la Poste

Later in the year, in November, I attended the Trends Impact Awards at the elegant Maison de la Poste in Tour & Taxis.

Although I wasn’t selected as a finalist, the ceremony was a nourishing experience: a day full of interesting speakers, thoughtful discussions about equity and inclusion, and plenty of opportunities to connect. After the eleven winners were announced we enjoyed a walking dinner — a relaxed, convivial moment that became a valuable networking opportunity. I met other contestants, exchanged ideas and left feeling energised by the generosity and curiosity in the room.

Championing Mercury-Free Gold — Reciprocity Jewels in Chicago

A Trunk Show with Purpose

As the year moved into autumn, another beautiful opportunity came my way: participating in the Reciprocity Jewels trunk show in Chicago.
The event coincides each year with the Chicago Responsible Jewelry Conference, and its mission is clear: to prove that responsible mining is not just possible — it is happening.

The participating jewellers, myself included, worked exclusively with gold and silver extracted mercury-free by artisanal miners in Peru. This is a powerful statement in an industry that still relies heavily on mercury — a practice that has devastating consequences for miners, surrounding communities, and the environment.

A Collaboration Rooted in Integrity

I was truly delighted to join the fourth edition of Reciprocity Jewels, alongside a group of remarkable international designers who share a deep commitment to ethical sourcing. For the show, which was first exhibited during New York jewelry Week in November 2024, each of us created a capsule collection created entirely from mercury-free precious metals supplied by a network of Peruvian artisanal miners.

These miners, working in the Amazon region, are pioneering safer, more sustainable extraction techniques. Their dedication is extraordinary.
To honour their work by transforming these materials into jewellery felt incredibly meaningful.

A Celebration of Craftsmanship, Transparency and Connection

This year’s exhibition opened on 18 September at Gallery 2052 in Chicago and continued for six weeks. It was a beautiful moment of exchange — a place where designers, miners, activists, and clients came together to reflect on what responsible luxury truly means.

The collaboration highlighted one essential truth:
When the story behind a piece of jewellery is rooted in dignity and fairness, the beauty of the final piece shines even brighter.

A November commission — an engagement ring with a twist

In November, I received a commission that warmed my heart. Someone reached out for a bespoke engagement ring, and only later did I discover that the recipient was one of the judges on my Trends Impact Award panel. This added such a personal layer to the project — a gentle reminder that craftsmanship creates connections in the most unexpected ways.

Designing engagement rings is always emotional, but this one carried a sense of circularity, as though the year folded in on itself. This makes me smile.

Reflecting on 2025 — What This Year Has Taught Me

The Power of Independent Voices

One of the recurring themes of 2025 for me was the strength of independent artisans.
It can sometimes feel as if larger players dominate the conversation in the jewellery world — but this year proved that independent makers not only have a voice, but one that is sought after and valued.

Sustainability Is a Journey, Not a Destination

Receiving the Ecodynamic Label reminded me that sustainability isn’t something one achieves once and then sets aside. It is a process of continuous learning, improvement, and experimentation.

Every time I adjust a method, change a product, shift a workflow, or deepen a relationship with miners and suppliers, I take another small step forward. Those steps add up — over years, over decades — and together with you, they shape the future of my work.

While awards and travels add visible highlights to a year, the heart of my work lies in the quiet, intimate world of bespoke commissions. These pieces anchor me — they remind me why I care so deeply about materials, ethics and craftsmanship.

Thank you to all of you for being part of my 2025 — for reading, supporting, sharing and choosing craftsmanship rooted in responsibility.

Wishing you a peaceful festive season and a bright, hopeful 2026.

Warm creative greetings,
Saskia

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What Really Happens When You Invest in Gold?

Saskia Shutt — Mon, 24 Nov 2025 09:31:06 +0000

main image: Fairmined website

My Reflections on Rising Prices, Ethics, and the Future of Jewellery

Have you ever stopped to consider what truly happens when you invest in gold? I ask myself this question often—more than most, perhaps—because gold is not only my material of work but also a living thread that connects miners, artisans, investors, and the planet itself. Recently, this question has become even more urgent. Gold is rising in leaps and bounds, and today it sits at just over €3,500 per ounce (31.1 grams).

In uncertain times, people instinctively turn to gold because it retains its value. And doing so for centuries. Yet what I see, from my vantage point as both a goldsmith and a Fairmined licensee, is that the rising price of gold carries consequences far beyond the financial markets. It ripples outward—into supply chains, communities, ecosystems, and the ethics of how we choose to invest.

In this article, I explore what rising gold prices really mean, why they matter more than most investors realise, and how choosing fair and traceable gold can transform an extractive cycle into something regenerative and empowering.

Why Gold Prices Rise—and Why It Matters

Gold is famously resilient. When global politics wobble, when currencies fluctuate, when markets lose their shine, gold becomes the safe harbour. And so, as uncertainty grows, so does demand. Yet the dramatic rise to €3,500 per ounce brings more than financial comfort to investors. It also pressures the entire gold supply chain—especially those parts that are vulnerable, loosely regulated, or hidden from view.

As a Fairmined licensee, this is the question I keep returning to:

How does the rising price of gold affect the supply chain behind my materials, and how can I be certain that the gold I work with truly reflects my values of sustainability, traceability, and human dignity?

The uncomfortable truth is that rising prices create powerful incentives—not only for legitimate mining but also for illegal operations.

Rising Gold Prices: A Double-Edged Sword

On the one hand, a high gold price can enrich small mining communities when they work within certified, traceable systems. It can provide schools, healthcare, safety equipment, environmental restoration, and long-term community development.

But there is another side to the story—a far darker one.

When gold prices soar, illegal mining often increases alongside them. And with illegal mining comes a cascade of consequences: environmental destruction, social exploitation, criminal activity, and the loss of human life. It becomes a vicious circle:

Rising prices → more illegal mining → greater environmental harm → deeper social damage → rising demand for “cheap” gold.

But I want to be clear: This is not an inevitable outcome everywhere. Much depends on regulation, transparency, and the willingness of consumers and jewellers to choose traceable materials. Ethical systems like Fairmined are not a soft alternative—they are a proven solution.

The Environmental Toll of Illegal Gold Mining

Illegal mining is devastating to the environment, and its harm reaches far beyond the mined sites themselves.

The hidden poison behind “cheap” gold

Mercury remains the simplest and cheapest way for illegal miners to separate gold from rock or river sediment. But what makes it “easy” for them makes it catastrophic for the rest of us. The mercury used in this process enters waterways, soils, crops, and air, and it does not stay local. It travels, bioaccumulates andpoisons.

Communities downstream suffer. Wildlife dies. Entire ecosystems begin to collapse. And the mercury persists for generations.

Gold, in such cases, is extracted at the cost of human and environmental health.

Deforestation and water contamination

According to research from the UNODC and environmental organisations across the world, illegal mining bypasses environmental regulation entirely. Forests are cleared at alarming rates. Wildlife habitats are destroyed. Water sources become contaminated by sediment, chemicals, and waste.

The World Resources Institute reports that rising gold prices are directly linked to increased illegal mining in the Amazon, resulting in both ecological destruction and social harm. And it is often vulnerable young people—drawn by the promise of easy money—who enter this world, exposing themselves to toxic chemicals, exploitative labour conditions, and violent criminal networks.

The Human Cost: What Price Do We Put on Life?

When we talk about investing in gold bars—beautiful, heavy, perfectly stamped—it can be easy to forget the human beings at the other end of the chain. Illegal miners often work without protective gear, using bare hands and basic tools. Many operate alone or in isolated conditions, without safety nets, medical support, or the ability to walk away from dangerous situations.

So I find myself asking:

What is the true price of a 100g or 200g gold bar?
Can it ever justify the loss of human dignity, human health, or human life?

And if we stockpile gold bars for the future, what kind of planet will we be handing over to our children if that gold came at the expense of their world’s forests, rivers, and biodiversity?

This is why consciousness and traceability matters. It is why certifications like Fairmined exist—not as branding but as a shield for people and the planet.

Criminal Networks and the Domino Effect

Illegal gold does not travel in isolation. It often intertwines with criminal systems—money laundering, corruption, human rights abuses, and organised crime. The higher the value of gold, the greater the incentive for criminal networks to claim their share.
This domino effect harms entire regions and destabilises communities.

By contrast, certified gold systems disrupt these networks by enforcing transparency at every step: from the mine to the jeweller to the final piece.

Traceability becomes a tool of justice.

How Rising Gold Prices Affect Jewellers

Jewellers around the world are feeling the impact of the rising gold price. The cost of materials can double or triple, margins shrink, and customers become nervous. But what if we look at this from a positive viewpoint?

What if rising gold prices became an opportunity instead of an obstacle?

What if consumers chose to invest—not in gold bars locked away in safes—but in jewellery that holds both financial and emotional value? Bespoke jewellery not just with an emotional value, but human value. Handmade bespoke jewellery with transparency, traceability and empowerment to the miners.

Gold Jewellery as an Ethical Investment

When you invest in jewellery made from transparent, traceable, Fairmined gold, you achieve something powerful.

Your gold remains an asset: Gold jewellery carries intrinsic value. It can be worn, cherished, passed down, loved—and yet still retain its material worth.
You support empowerment, not exploitation: Fairmined certification ensures that miners work in safe conditions, free from toxic chemicals, and with fair pay. If they fail to meet the Fairmined Standard, they lose their certification. There is no compromise.
You invest in environmental regeneration: Fairmined communities commit to environmental protection, reforestation, and land restoration. Many operate in circular models to ensure long-term sustainability.

You preserve craftsmanship: Commissioning a jeweller means investing in artistry, culture, and human skill—not in anonymous commodities. You give your investment a soul.
You get to wear your investment: A gold bar sits in a vault. Gold jewellery lives on your skin, carries your stories, marks your milestones.

As someone who has visited Fairmined mines in Peru and Colombia, seen the work, the care, the social impact, and the sense of pride within each community, I can tell you: the difference is profound. Fairmined gold is not a luxury—it is a responsibility, a promise, and a partnership.

A Future Where Gold Has a Positive Story

Imagine a future where rising gold prices do not spark tragedy but instead uplift communities and restore landscapes.

Or that every piece of gold jewellery—whether a wedding ring, a necklace, or a simple pendant—carries a traceable, certified provenance.

Imagine that miners receive fair wages, that rivers run free of mercury, that forests grow back, and that buyers feel proud of the beauty they wear.

This is the future that Fairmined gold makes possible. A future that consumers can help shape with every purchase. And this is the future I am committed to as a goldsmith and designer.

Your Gold Investment Can Be Ethical, Beautiful, and Responsible

Whether you choose Fairmined certified gold bars from wholesalers like Fairever, or you commission a piece of jewellery from me, you are taking part in a different kind of investment—one that protects both the people who mined the gold and the environment it came from.

Your gold can have a positive footprint. Your jewellery can be a force for regeneration. And your investment can support real lives, real communities, and real sustainability.

Choose Ethical Gold—And Let’s Create Something Meaningful Together

If you’re thinking about investing in gold, I invite you to consider doing so in a way that supports transparency, craftsmanship, and positive impact. Fairmined gold offers the reassurance that your investment uplifts rather than harms, and jewellery offers the joy of wearing your values every day.

If you feel inspired to explore a bespoke piece—something handcreated, meaningful, and made with fully traceable Fairmined gold—I’d love to welcome you into my workshop.

Book your appointment with me, and together we’ll design a piece that not only holds its value, but also carries a story of fairness, beauty, and conscious choice.

Your gold can make a difference.
Let’s make that difference together.

The post What Really Happens When You Invest in Gold? appeared first on Saskia Shutt.

Lost wax casting in jewellery

Saskia Shutt — Fri, 22 Aug 2025 09:25:16 +0000

Lost wax casting is one of the oldest jewellery-making techniques known to humanity. It dates back around 6,400 years, and remarkably, the fundamentals of the process have hardly changed. Ancient goldsmiths worked with beeswax and clay, while today we benefit from modern tools and rubber moulds. Yet, the soul of the technique remains the same: wax is transformed into precious metal through fire, skill, and precision.

Although I rarely use lost wax casting in my everyday work, the technique plays a vital role in certain areas of my jewellery practice. My approach as a goldsmith is usually to build my pieces up from scratch, carefully shaping and fabricating metal by hand. However, when I work on larger statement pieces or on certain remodelling projects, lost wax casting becomes the perfect solution.

In this article, I want to share the fascinating history of lost wax casting, how I learned it during my own training, how it is used in modern jewellery workshops, and why I still use it today for certain bespoke projects.

What Is Lost Wax Casting?

The process of lost wax casting, also known as cire perdue, has been around for millennia. From Mesopotamia to Egypt, from the Indus Valley to Africa, artisans discovered that wax could be used as a temporary model for objects in metal. The technique is simple in principle: create a model in wax, encase it in a mould, melt the wax away, and replace it with molten metal.

Even though tools and materials have evolved over time, the method has remained strikingly consistent. Today we may use investment powder instead of clay, and rubber moulds instead of carved stone, but the idea is exactly the same as it was thousands of years ago.

This continuity across time is what makes lost wax casting so special. When I work with this technique, I feel connected to generations of craftspeople who came before me. It’s a reminder that jewellery-making is both ancient and ever-evolving.

The Timeless History of Lost Wax Casting

Lost wax casting has been uncovered in ancient artefacts from civilisations across the world. Egyptian gold amulets, Mesopotamian figurines, and early Indian ornaments all reveal the marks of this process. The technique spread widely because of its versatility: it allowed artisans to create complex shapes and intricate details that were impossible with direct hammering or fabrication.

The technique’s endurance over 6,000 years proves its brilliance. It is a process that adapts effortlessly to time while keeping its essential nature unchanged.

My First Experience with Lost Wax Casting

My first introduction to lost wax casting came during my degree at Duncan of Jordanstone School of Art and Design between 1994 and 1997. The course gave me a taste of the technique, more of a teaser than a deep dive. At that stage, it was just one of many methods to explore as a student jeweller.

Two decades later, in 2020, I felt a strong pull to return to wax work. I enrolled in a wax techniques course at Syntra Brussel, under the expert tuition of Alain Roggeman and Nico Delaide.

With Alain, my fellow students and I discovered the different types of wax and their specific uses. Some waxes are soft and pliable, perfect for modelling, while others are hard and crisp, ideal for detailed carving. Each wax demands a different approach and has its own quirks. For me, the joy lies in carving in wax—shaping a form with deliberate precision, knowing that it will one day become metal. That is the part of lost wax casting I cherish most, and it is the technique I still use regularly in my workshop today.

With Nico, we turned to the subject of mould-making. His focus was on reproduction—using rubber moulds to create multiple identical pieces. This area of lost wax casting sits in contrast with my own work, but it gave me valuable insight into the world of small-scale jewellery production.

Wax Types and the Art of Wax Carving

Wax carving is both meditative and exacting. A block of wax becomes a canvas. I remove slivers, file surfaces, and build tiny details. Unlike working directly with metal, wax is forgiving. If I carve too deeply, I can melt a little wax and repair the surface. If I want to test proportions, I can adjust them before committing to metal.

This stage of jewellery-making feels intimate. I hold the piece in my hands in a way I cannot once it is metal. I can see the future form emerging, and yet it still feels alive and flexible.

Once carved, the wax is transformed into metal through casting. The fragility of wax is replaced by the permanence of gold or silver. The transition is always magical. What was once soft and ephemeral becomes solid and enduring.

Lost Wax Casting and Rubber Moulds in Jewellery Production

Rubber moulds are an essential part of lost wax casting when jewellers want to reproduce designs. A rubber mould captures every detail of an original piece. It can then be used to create wax copies, which are in turn cast into metal.

These moulds can last 10 to 20 years, depending on how often they are used. They are particularly useful for jewellers who need to produce collections in volume. Instead of carving each wax model from scratch, they can produce hundreds or even thousands of identical waxes from a single mould.

This method is efficient. It reduces manual labour, shortens production time, and lowers costs. It allows jewellery businesses to offer consistent designs at accessible prices.

In some cases, jewellers will cast the main body of a piece using moulds and then hand-finish each one. This hybrid method balances efficiency with artistry: the core design is replicated, but the finishing touches are still shaped by hand. It creates jewellery that is uniform in structure but still retains a unique character.

Why I Rarely Use Moulds in My Bespoke Jewellery Practice

In my own workshop, I very rarely use rubber moulds. My work is rooted in the philosophy of bespoke craftsmanship. Each piece I create is designed and made for one individual. It reflects their story, their gemstones, and their vision.

Carving each wax model by hand allows me to tailor the design precisely. When I carve a wax for a bespoke piece, I am not just shaping a model; I am shaping the foundation of a future heirloom. Every curve, every angle, and every recess is designed with intention.

This is particularly important when gemstones are involved. Gemstones are not uniform. They vary in shape, size, and cut. A hand-carved wax can be tailored perfectly to cradle the chosen stones. This level of precision simply cannot be achieved with standardised moulds.

Bespoke jewellery thrives on individuality. No two pieces should be the same. That is why I carve each wax fresh, with my client and their story in mind. No mould is made after casting in the desired precious metal.

Sand Casting vs. Lost Wax Casting

In my workshop, I also use another traditional casting method: sand casting. This is especially valuable when I remodel customers’ old jewellery. It is a technique for one-of-a-kind casting.

Sand casting requires more material than lost wax casting. To succeed, I need at least twice the amount of gold than the final piece will require. This is because the process relies on gravity. The molten metal must push itself into every crevice of the sand mould, and without the extra weight, the casting can fail. The result would be incomplete or misshapen.

Once the new piece is finished, I return any unused gold to my customer. This way, nothing is lost, and the sentimental value of their original material is preserved.

Sand casting has a different aesthetic from lost wax casting. It produces a rawer, more organic surface texture, which many clients find appealing. It also offers a sustainable way of giving old jewellery a new life.

Why Lost Wax Casting Still Matters Today

Lost wax casting continues to be an essential technique for jewellers worldwide. From mass production to bespoke artistry, it adapts to different needs. For some, it is about efficiency and reproducibility. For others, like me, it is about expression, carving, and storytelling.

What strikes me most is that this method has endured for thousands of years because it works so well. The fundamentals have not needed to change. Fire, wax, and metal come together in a process that still feels almost alchemical.

Conclusion: The Magic of Lost Wax Casting in Bespoke Jewellery

Although fabrication remains my primary method of working, lost wax casting has its place in my practice. For larger pieces, it provides strength and structure that would be laborious to achieve by hand. For remodelling projects, it allows me to give old gold new life. And for bespoke creations, it allows me to carve designs directly tailored to my clients’ gemstones and stories.

Every time I use the technique, I am reminded of its history. I imagine the goldsmiths of ancient civilisations carving wax in the flicker of lamplight. I imagine their awe as molten metal took shape. And I feel grateful that I can continue this lineage of craftsmanship in my own contemporary practice.

Lost wax casting is more than just a technique. It is a bridge between past and present. It connects me to ancient traditions while allowing me to create jewellery that is relevant today. Whether it is carving a bespoke wax for a client, remodelling old gold in sand, or exploring the versatility of different wax types, the technique offers endless possibilities.

Every piece of jewellery tells a story. And when that story begins in wax, the journey feels even more profound. If you are ready to begin your own journey and create your dream piece of bespoke jewellery, I warmly invite you to book an appointment with me and let’s bring your vision to life.

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The Meaning Behind Birthstones: August – Exploring Peridot

Saskia Shutt — Sat, 02 Aug 2025 16:34:35 +0000

As summer shifts from July to August, one gemstone shines with the season’s vitality: Peridot. With its radiant green hue, Peridot is the perfect gift to celebrate August birthdays and the vibrant energy of high summer. This unique birthstone boasts a rich history, deep spiritual symbolism, and a personal significance that has stayed with me since I launched my first jewellery collection in 1999.

Origins and Ancient History of Peridot

Peridot is the gem-quality variety of the mineral olivine. It forms deep within the Earth’s mantle and surfaces through volcanic activity. Its vibrant olive-green hue, sometimes with a golden undertone, depends on its iron content.

This mesmerising gemstone has been cherished for over 4,000 years. The earliest known Peridot mines were located on St John’s Island (Zabargad) in the Egyptian Red Sea. In antiquity, the island was known as Topazios. The Ancient Egyptians revered Peridot, calling it the “gem of the sun”. They believed it offered protection from evil spirits and night terrors—especially when set in gold.

Over time, Peridot deposits have been discovered in several regions across the globe, including Arizona (USA), Pakistan, China, Burma, Brazil, and Kenya. One notable source is the San Carlos Apache Reservation in Arizona, which remains a leading supplier of high-quality Peridot today.

Why Peridot Means So Much to Me

In August 1999, I launched my very first jewellery collection. I chose to work with silver and yellow gold, setting each piece with Peridots. At that time, I focused on designing complete collections—a different rhythm from the bespoke commissions I now specialise in. That first collection felt like a creative awakening.

Peridot quickly became more than a gemstone to me. It symbolised the excitement and possibility of those early years. Even now, when I work with Peridot, I’m transported back to the buzz of designing, the flow of ideas, and the glow of those green gems catching the light on my bench.

Although I now pour my heart into bespoke commissions, Peridot still holds a very special place in my heart. It represents the start of my journey as a designer-goldsmith and the path that led me to where I am today.

Bespoke Peridot Creations Over the Years

Reciprocity Exhibition – New York Jewellery Week 2024

In 2024, I was honoured to participate in the Reciprocity exhibition during New York Jewellery Week. My piece for the show was a ring created in mercury-free silver, sourced from artisanal miners in Madre de Dios. The centre stone? A Peridot from Arizona, flanked by pink sapphires from Ilakaka, Madagascar. The ring itself is hand-carved in wax and cast in silver using the lost wax casting technique.

The exhibition highlighted responsible mining and aimed to create positive change for mining communities. I loved contributing to such a meaningful project that aligned with my core values: sustainability, traceability, and ethical craftsmanship.

Sentimental Symbolism in an Engagement Ring

One of the most heartfelt commissions I’ve received was for an engagement ring inspired by the wedding tradition: “Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue”.

This client wanted the ring to reflect both his and his partner’s heritage. The diamonds, once set in his grandmother’s ring, served as the “something old and borrowed”. The white gold was new—Fairmined eco gold. The final touch: a green Peridot, representing Ireland (his partner’s homeland), sourced from Arizona, his home state. A perfect blend of tradition, love, and storytelling. I treasure projects like this—they’re not only creative but deeply meaningful.

Remodelling with Personal Touch

Another favourite commission came from an American client living in Brussels. She discovered my work via Pinterest, realised I was based nearby, and reached out to remodel her old gold jewellery and loose gemstones.

She gave me creative freedom, trusting my design instincts. I cleaned, melted down her gold, and reworked it into a striking new ring, featuring her gemstones and a kite-shaped Peridot from my stock. Although paler than typical Peridots, the stone dazzles with its subtle luminosity.

I love how this piece represents transformation—taking something from the past and giving it new life and meaning.

Cufflinks with Character

Cufflinks remain one of my favourite items to create, though I rarely get requests for them these days. Back when I lived in the UK, both men and women wore cufflinks regularly. I still believe they’re a brilliant way to accessorise—no occasion necessary.

Bespoke handmade cufflinks also make for excellent personal corporate gifts.

One standout pair I created for a jewellery show featured Peridots set in silver. Another commission came from a British client working in Belgium. These cufflinks offered a wonderful way to showcase bold design in a smaller form, perfect for those who like to wear their personality on their sleeves—quite literally!

Every bespoke piece I create embodies my values: craftsmanship, sustainability, and ethical sourcing. Peridot often features in these stories, not just for its beauty but for what it represents. My approach honours age-old goldsmithing techniques and embraces mindful design. I care deeply about every stage of the journey—from sourcing materials to hand-finishing the final piece.

Caring for Your Peridot Jewellery

While Peridot is a captivating stone, it does require some care to maintain its beauty. It ranks around 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs hardness scale, so it’s best to avoid wearing it during heavy manual work.

To clean Peridot, simply use warm, soapy water and a soft cloth. Avoid ultrasonic cleaners and steamers, as these may damage the stone. Store Peridot jewellery separately from harder stones like diamonds or sapphires to prevent scratches.

By treating your Peridot with care, it will continue to radiate warmth and charm for generations.

Styling Peridot: Effortless Elegance

Peridot’s lively green glow pairs effortlessly with both cool and warm metals. I love how it looks in yellow gold, which amplifies its golden undertones. Silver settings create a contemporary contrast, highlighting the gem’s vibrancy.

It suits both minimalist and bold statement pieces. Whether worn in delicate studs, bold cocktail rings, or layered pendants, Peridot adds a fresh burst of colour that lifts every outfit. It transitions beautifully from summer dresses to evening wear, making it a versatile choice year-round.

Legends, Lore and Metaphysical Meaning

Throughout history, cultures across the globe have ascribed mystical powers to Peridot. The Romans called it the “evening emerald” for its ability to glow under lamplight. In Hawaiian legends, Peridot symbolised the tears of Pele, the goddess of volcanoes and fire.

In modern metaphysical circles, Peridot is associated with the heart chakra. It’s said to support emotional balance, reduce stress, and invite compassion and renewal. Many wear it to attract abundance, cleanse negative energy, or strengthen relationships. Whether you resonate with these meanings or simply enjoy the gem’s luminous beauty, Peridot offers a joyful presence.

Final Thoughts

Peridot is far more than a pretty summer gem. It’s a symbol of renewal, emotional healing, protection, and abundance. Its vibrant energy reflects ancient sunlight and deepens the story of every piece it adorns.

It was Peridot that began my journey as a designer-goldsmith in 1999. And it’s Peridot that continues to shine in my bespoke commissions—always carrying meaning, beauty, and ethical integrity.

So, if you’re looking for a meaningful summer gift or a personalised August birthstone creation, Peridot set in silver or yellow gold makes a timeless, thoughtful choice.

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Something Old, Something New: Transforming Heirloom Jewellery for Your Big Day

Saskia Shutt — Sun, 29 Jun 2025 21:06:09 +0000

Gold is timeless. It’s soft, malleable, and endlessly repurposable. You can melt it down, reshape it, and give it new life. Whether it’s from heirloom pieces, gold coins, or even dental gold, it holds value and stories. Gold never gets thrown away. It carries meaning. It endures across generations. That’s why it’s perfect for wedding rings.

For over 26 years, I’ve been transforming heirloom jewellery into new, bespoke wedding rings and other jewellery pieces. These aren’t just rings. They’re memories made wearable. They celebrate the couple’s future and honour the past. When you wear heirloom gold on your wedding day, you carry family history into your new life. It’s not just sentimental. It’s deeply symbolic.

The Power of Transforming Heirloom Jewellery

A wedding marks a new chapter. It’s about commitment, unity, and shared futures. But when you use heirloom gold, it’s also about roots.

Transforming heirlooms connects the past with the present. You honour loved ones while stepping into a new journey.

I’ve worked with gold that once belonged to grandmothers, great-uncles, and long-lost ancestors. Each piece tells a story. And when remodelled into wedding rings, that story continues.

Transforming heirloom jewellery isn’t just sustainable. It’s profoundly meaningful. It’s a physical link to your lineage. A quiet reminder of the love and strength that came before you.

Gold Coins with a New Purpose

img: Bullion Star website

One of my favourite commissions came from a couple who brought me a 24ct Australian gold coin. It featured a kangaroo, minted in 2009. It was a gift from the groom’s mother. She wanted the couple to use it for their wedding rings.

24ct gold is very soft. So, firstly, milling the coin down to a manageable cutting thickness. From there, I slicing off the exact weight needed for both rings.

To make the gold suitable for everyday wear, I alloy it with fine silver and copper. This reduces the purity from 24ct to 18ct — a perfect balance of strength and beauty.

With the newly created alloy, I begin the process of handmaking two simple, elegant wedding rings. Each stroke of the leather hammer, each pass through the rolling mill, is done with care and precision.

That coin becomes something more than a keepsake. It becomes a symbol of their commitment. And a gift that will last a lifetime.

Another beautiful example of transforming heirloom jewellery into something modern, yet meaningful.

From Grandparents' Rings to New Beginnings

Another deeply touching project involving three wedding bands from the couple’s grandparents. The gold had seen decades of marriage, love, and life.

Together, we decided to melt down the rings and transform them into new ones. The result was stunning — simple bands that look modern but carry decades of family heritage.

The symbolism is powerful. Their rings aren’t just about their love. They are a tribute to the love stories that came before.

Wearing those rings, they feel their grandparents with them — on the day and every day after.

These are the kinds of transformations which makes jewellery more than beautiful. They make it personal. Sacred, even.

It’s another moving example of the beauty in transforming heirlooms.

A Union Forged in Gold

Weddings are about union. Not just between two people — but also two families, two histories, two lifetimes.

Transforming heirloom jewellery into wedding rings is a way of weaving those histories together. It’s a celebration of love that spans generations.

It tells a story. One of continuity, resilience, and deep emotional connection. You’re not just starting a life together. You’re carrying loved ones with you — literally — in the gold you wear.

There is beauty in that. And great comfort.

Leftover Gold, Fresh Start

Sometimes, heirloom gold comes in unexpected forms. One couple brought me a mix: leftover white gold from a previous remodel, plus a few yellow gold pieces.

The white and yellow gold couldn’t just be mixed. Hence, exchanging the yellow gold for white ensures a consistent colour.

Once the alloys match, I melt everything into one solid bar. Then rolling it down into a sheet — just the right thickness and width for their chunky rings.

Next comes texturing. Then shaping. Finally, setting.

Her ring has extra detail — a trio of sparkling diamonds, channel-set for a sleek, modern finish.

What begins as a pile of old fragments becomes two bold, contemporary wedding rings. A perfect story of transforming heirlooms with purpose and vision.

A Grandmother’s Diamonds, A New Love Story

Rose gold always carries a certain warmth. And in this commission, the warmth runs deep.

The couple brought gold from the groom’s mother. It includes diamonds from his grandmother’s engagement ring.

Creating two bands from the rose gold. The soft blush tone is perfect — romantic and rich.

For her ring, they are incorporating the grandmother’s five diamonds. These are set into rubover setting along the top of the ring, catching the light and adding sparkle.

It is emotional. A tribute to a beloved woman. A way to keep her close, not just in memory but in form.

This is transforming heirloom jewellery at its most personal and heartfelt.

Your Rings, Your Story

Your wedding rings should be more than beautiful. They should be meaningful, and speak of your story. Where you come from and where you’re going.

Whether it’s a coin, an old chain, or rings from past generations, I can help you turn it into something truly unique.

Something made just for you. Something old, made new.

This is the essence of transforming heirlooms. I love the process of transforming old jewellery into new desirable pieces.

Planning your wedding and have heirloom gold, let’s talk.

Together, we’ll create wedding rings that are personal, poetic, and full of meaning.

Each transformation is unique. Every ring is handmade in my Brussels workshop, with care and intention.

Let your rings tell your story. A story of love, memory, and new beginnings.

Book your appointment today — and let’s begin the journey of transforming your heirlooms into something timeless.

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Reflections on the Fair Luxury Jewellery Conference

Saskia Shutt — Sun, 15 Jun 2025 21:26:29 +0000

The State of Sustainability in the Jewellery Industry at The Goldsmiths’ Centre, 9 June 2025

Last Monday, I had the pleasure of attending the Fair Luxury Jewellery Conference at The Goldsmiths’ Centre in London. The event, titled “The State of Sustainability in the Jewellery Industry,” brought together makers, thinkers, and changemakers for an afternoon of thought-provoking talks and lively discussion panels. We tackled both the challenges and the progress within our industry when it comes to sustainability — a buzz word but not always clearly define.

Setting the Scene

The first session set the tone for the afternoon. Cristina Villegas, Founder and Director of Nature’s Wealth, posed a powerful question: “The future of gemstones… Are you with us?” Her talk looked at how responsible sourcing has evolved and how small changes can have a big impact on mining communities. Toby Pomeroy followed with an inspiring update on Mercury Free Mining, the organisation he founded to eliminate mercury from artisanal gold mining. I was moved by his determination and the progress they’ve made using safer technologies like the Goldrop system.

Then came Joanna Hardy, whose Personal Reflection on Visiting Gem Mines was deeply human and grounded. Her talk reminded us that gemstones are not just commodities, but the result of hard work and complex histories. Finally, Greg Valerio, jeweller and social activist spoke with conviction and clarity about PeaceGold, which uses gold as a tool for peacebuilding and social regeneration in post-conflict regions. His words challenged us all to look beyond gold’s market value — and towards its potential to transform lives.

Carbon Emissions and Jewellery

In the second session, I was honoured to be invited to sit on the panel discussing carbon emissions. Joining me were Charlie Cotton (ecollective), Chris Hocknell (Eight Versa), and Jos Skeates (EC One). The panel was moderated by fellow jeweller Susi Smither, founder of The Rock Hound and a fellow Fair Luxury team member.

We spoke honestly about the realities of reducing our carbon footprints in the jewellery world. From supply chain emissions to workshop energy use, the conversation was complex, but hopeful. It reminded me that small steps can lead to meaningful change, especially when we share knowledge across the industry.

What Has Been Achieved? What Still Needs Work?

Session three took us into the world of manufacturing. We heard from Alex Monroe, Aastha Sethi (Boodles), Kerry Sounders (Domino Jewellery/Weston Beamor), and Gary Wroe (NAJ). The panel, moderated by Charlotte Dew of The Goldsmiths’ Centre, explored the progress we’ve made in responsible production — and where we still fall short.

One insight that stood out came from Weston Beamor. They spoke about how they took action without waiting for customers to demand it. They installed solar panels, lined their ovens with thermal material to reduce energy use, and now recycle over 15,000 litres of water annually. It was a clear reminder that sustainability should begin with us — not with pressure from consumers.

Marketing, Greenwashing, and Greenwashing

The final session of the afternoon addressed responsible marketing and greenwashing — two topics I care deeply about. The panel featured Emma Beckett (EBPR), Jamie Moore (Positive Luxury), Katie Gillespie (NAJ), and Rebekah Ann (Rebekah Ann Jewellery). It was moderated by Rebecca Maddock, founder of Worn Studio and a fellow Fair Luxury member.

The biggest takeaway for me was around communication — and how we use language. The word “sustainability” is everywhere. It’s on websites, in captions, in conversations. But what does it really mean?

I’ve been thinking about this for some time, and the discussion reinforced my concerns. We say “sustainable”, but if we can’t back that up with clear definitions and transparent sourcing, the word loses meaning. I found myself asking: Should we be speaking instead about social responsibility, environmental action, or traceability?

Redefining Sustainability in My Own Practice

On my website, I’ve spoken before about how mining is not sustainable. You can’t keep digging forever. So where does that leave artisanal miners? If we all turn to recycled gold, we leave those communities behind. Yes, recycling gold has its place, but it lacks transparencey, traceability and social sustainability. It doesn’t provide livelihoods for the people at the beginning of the supply chain.

That’s why I support slow mining — responsible, artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) where the focus is on human dignity and environmental care. Artisanal mining is handlabour, using pickaxes and buckets, while small-scale operations use basic machinery. But both are vital, and both can be done with respect.

Cristina Villegas shared that responsible sourcing gemstones really began in 2015. A year later, the GIA introduced basic gemmological education for miners. Until then, many ASM miners sold gemstones by weight rather than value — often losing out on fair prices. Thanks to education and tools like the GIA’s free Gem Guide, miners are now empowered to assess and sell gemstones more accurately.

I also learnt more about Moyo Gems, which was founded in 2016. Their miners now earn around 95% of export value — compared to the industry average of just 35%. Documentation plays a key role here. When sales are properly recorded, it creates legal trade, creditworthiness, and traceability. It shows that transparency is possible.

Mercury, Conflict and Circular Economies

Toby Pomeroy shared a sobering statistic: 15 to 20 million small-scale gold miners release over 5,000 kg of mercury into the environment each year. Projects like Mercury Free Mining and Fairmined are fighting this. Fairmined miners in Peru use gravimetric tables (shaking tables) and panning to extract gold without mercury or cyanide. Mercury Free Mining uses the Goldrop, developed by John Richmond in 2018, which is making a real difference.

Greg Valerio’s talk stayed with me. Can gold help build peace? Through PeaceGold, mining cooperatives are trained in conflict resolution and supported to reintegrate ex-combatants. These province mines excavate around 5,000 to 6,000 kg of gold each year. But rather than watching wealth disappear to Dubai or China, PeaceGold builds a circular economy — where the value stays in the community. This, to me, is what fair luxury is really about.

My Own Reflections: Fair Luxury in Practice

The question I left with was: “How do I speak clearly and honestly about what I do?”

I’ve always felt uneasy using the word ethical. Everyone defines it differently. Instead, I focus on responsibility. I work with Fairmined-certified gold and source gemstones from transparent, ASM suppliers. This allows me to trace my materials and make conscious decisions in my work.

I don’t claim to be perfect — I’m still learning. But I’ve made real efforts to reduce my carbon footprint, which is part of why I was awarded the three-star Ecodynamic Label. More importantly, I want my clients to feel informed when they choose to work with me. They’re not just buying a piece of jewellery — they’re supporting a whole story of people, planet, and principle.

At the end of the day, I believe that miners should be able to thrive — not just survive. It’s because of them that I can do what I love. This belief underpins everything I do. You can read more in my article What Fairmined Means to Me.

A Mindset for the Future

The conference left me inspired. Meeting peers who care deeply about a fair luxury jewellery industry and sustainable practices reminded me that we’re not alone. From Moyo Gems to PeaceGold and Mercury Free Mining, I saw what’s possible when we work together.

We still have a long way to go, including around transparent well underpinned communication. But I feel hopeful. I’ve been part of this current for almost 10 years, and it’s heartening to see how far we’ve come. Fairness in the jewellery industry isn’t just a movement — it’s a mindset. And I’m proud to be part of it.

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