Fairmined Archives - Saskia Shutt

Bespoke Cufflinks: Refined Expression

Saskia Shutt — Mon, 22 Jun 2026 19:43:28 +0000

Jewellery comes in countless forms. Rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets have long held a prominent place in our wardrobes and our imaginations. Yet among these familiar objects sits a piece of jewellery that often goes unnoticed: the cufflink.

For centuries, cufflinks have occupied a unique position between adornment and function. They fasten the cuffs of a shirt, yet they also offer an opportunity for self-expression, craftsmanship and individuality. Despite this, cufflinks are often overlooked in contemporary jewellery conversations.

As a designer and goldsmith, bespoke cufflinks are among the pieces I most enjoy creating. When I worked in the United Kingdom, I made them regularly. Since moving to Belgium, however, commissions have become far less frequent. Here, cufflinks often seem confined to two worlds: the boardroom and the wedding ceremony. They are associated with high-end business suits, formal occasions and traditional dress codes.

While there is certainly a place for that, I believe cufflinks deserve a far broader audience.

For those who do not typically wear jewellery, cufflinks can be the perfect introduction to personal adornment. They offer a subtle way to express character without the visibility of a necklace or the permanence of a ring. A carefully chosen pair can transform an outfit, adding a detail that reveals personality, taste and confidence.

What fascinates me most is how cufflinks challenge our assumptions about jewellery itself. Many people still view them primarily as a men’s accessory. I have never shared that view.

Cufflinks are wonderfully gender-fluid. They can be worn by anyone who wishes to elevate an outfit, make a statement or simply enjoy the pleasure of wearing beautifully crafted objects. Jewellery has always evolved alongside fashion, and today’s approach to personal style is more fluid and individual than ever before.

Jewellery That Reflects Values

Today, many people associate cufflinks exclusively with formalwear. I see them differently. I see them as miniature works of art, capable of telling stories about the people who wear them and the values they choose to support.

For me, creating bespoke cufflinks begins long before I sit at the workbench. It begins with a conscious choice about materials.

Every precious metal carries a story. Too often, that story remains invisible to the person wearing the finished piece. Yet behind every gram of gold or silver are landscapes, communities and human lives.

This is why I choose to work with Fairmined precious metals wherever possible. Fairmined certification supports artisanal and small-scale mining communities that are committed to responsible environmental practices, safe working conditions and fair economic opportunities. It creates a direct connection between the wearer and the people whose skill and labour brought the metal into existence.

When a client commissions a pair of bespoke cufflinks, they are not simply choosing an accessory. They are choosing values. They are choosing to honour craftsmanship at every stage of the supply chain, from the miner who carefully extracts the precious metal from the earth to the goldsmith who transforms it into a finished piece.

In a world where products are increasingly disconnected from their origins, I believe luxury should mean something more. True luxury should respect both people and planet. It should celebrate human skill, preserve natural resources and create a positive impact that extends far beyond aesthetics.

A pair of cufflinks may seem like a small object, yet it can embody a remarkable story of connection, responsibility and conscious choice.

Breaking the Rules of How Cufflinks Are Worn

I regularly wear a large pair of four-leaf clover cufflinks myself. After designing the original clover motif for a project in early 2026, I loved the design so much that I created an oversized pair for my own collection. Crafted in Fairmined silver and set with a sea-green sapphire sourced from the Ilakaka mining community in Madagascar, they embody everything I value in jewellery: beauty, craftsmanship, storytelling and responsible sourcing.

Some people are surprised to see cufflinks worn outside formal settings. Yet I happily wear mine with a white double-cuff blouse, even in summer. In fact, I specifically chose a short-sleeved blouse with double cuffs because I wanted to challenge the notion that cufflinks belong exclusively on traditional long-sleeved shirts. Most cufflink shirts available today are designed with long sleeves, but why should they be?

To me, cufflinks deserve to be seen and enjoyed throughout the year. Wearing oversized four-leaf clover cufflinks on a short-sleeved blouse may seem unconventional, but that is precisely the point. Jewellery should invite creativity, not conformity.

Fashion is becoming increasingly individual and expressive. The rules that once dictated who could wear certain pieces and how they should be styled are rapidly disappearing. I believe cufflinks deserve to evolve alongside that movement.

A Rich History Waiting to Be Rediscovered

Interestingly, brooches have enjoyed a remarkable revival on red carpets in recent years. During the 2025 and 2026 awards seasons, actors and celebrities embraced brooches at major events such as the Oscars and Golden Globes, transforming them from historical curiosities into contemporary statements of style.

Watching this resurgence unfold, I often wondered why cufflinks were not enjoying a similar moment.

Both brooches and cufflinks share a fascinating history. They have moved in and out of fashion for centuries, adapting to changing tastes and cultural expectations. According to an article on Tailors World, the birth of the cufflink probably dates back to the time of Louis XIV in France, when decorative fastenings began replacing ribbons and ties used to secure shirt cuffs. By the eighteenth century, cufflinks had become symbols of refinement among royalty and the aristocracy. Later, the Industrial Revolution made them more widely accessible, allowing their popularity to spread far beyond noble circles and into everyday wardrobes.

Yet somewhere along the way, cufflinks became trapped by convention.

Their rich heritage became overshadowed by assumptions that they belonged only in formal settings. I believe it is time to rediscover them—not as relics of the past, but as contemporary jewellery with limitless creative potential.

Craftsmanship in Every Detail

Perhaps my perspective comes from the way I make them.

When I create a pair of bespoke cufflinks, I do not simply focus on the visible front. Every element matters. The mechanism itself deserves as much attention as the decorative design.

Unlike mass-produced cufflinks, where ready-made fittings are often soldered onto a decorative face, I handcraft the fittings myself. Some swivel. Others remain fixed. Some provide greater mobility, while others create a firmer, more sculptural connection. Each fitting is individually formed and finished, becoming an integral part of the design rather than an afterthought.

In many ways, this reflects my broader philosophy as a maker. In an era defined by automation and mass production, I find meaning in creating objects that bear the subtle evidence of human hands. Tiny differences emerge from one pair to the next. These nuances are not imperfections. They are signs of craftsmanship.

The attention devoted to the hidden details is every bit as important as the design visible on the surface.

Stories Worn on the Cuff

That attention to detail allows every commission to become deeply personal.

One particularly memorable project involved a gentleman who commissioned a ring and matching cufflinks. The ring combined white and yellow gold remodelled from his own jewellery and featured a heart-cut garnet nestled within a gold setting. To complement it, I created a pair of cufflinks in Fairmined silver with Fairmined gold accents, each set with matching heart-shaped garnets.

The finished pieces reflected not only his personal style but also his values. Through the choice of Fairmined precious metals, the jewellery supported responsible mining practices, improved working conditions and the empowerment of artisanal mining communities.

The cufflinks became more than adornment. They became a reflection of identity, memory and purpose.

Another commission took a very different direction.

For Guberna, I created bespoke cufflinks presented to retiring and departing CEOs as a gesture of appreciation for their years of leadership and dedication. Rather than engraving a logo onto an existing design, I transformed the company logo itself into a pair of cufflinks. Crafted in Fairmined silver, the logo became a wearable symbol of the organisation and the individual’s contribution to it.

Rather than offering a generic token of gratitude, the organisation chose to commission objects with lasting value. In doing so, they also supported responsible sourcing, artisanal mining communities and greater gender equality within the mining sector.

These cufflinks carried a story far richer than their elegant appearance might initially suggest.

The Future of Bespoke Cufflinks

Stories like these remind me why bespoke jewellery remains relevant.

We live in a world saturated with products. Yet people continue to seek objects that feel personal, authentic and meaningful. A bespoke cufflink offers all of these qualities. It can commemorate a milestone, celebrate a relationship, acknowledge an achievement or simply express an aspect of one’s personality.

The possibilities are endless.

Double cuffs need not remain confined to traditional shirts. Contemporary fashion offers exciting opportunities to reinterpret them. Long sleeves can feature exaggerated cuffs that draw attention to elaborate cufflinks. Short-sleeved garments can incorporate double-cuff details in unexpected ways. Cufflinks can be paired with matching brooches, tie pins or lapel pins to create a cohesive and distinctive personal style.

The beauty of bespoke design lies precisely in that freedom. There are no rules dictating what a cufflink should look like or who should wear it.

As jewellery continues to evolve, I believe cufflinks deserve to reclaim their place within contemporary design. They possess all the qualities that modern clients increasingly seek: individuality, craftsmanship, sustainability, storytelling and conscious luxury.

A Small Object With a Powerful Story

Perhaps the greatest luxury today is not simply owning something beautiful. It is owning something meaningful.

A pair of bespoke cufflinks may appear to be a small detail, but often it is the smallest details that leave the strongest impression. They accompany gestures, conversations and celebrations. They quietly reveal something about the person wearing them.

For those willing to look beyond convention, cufflinks offer far more than a refined finishing touch. They become an opportunity to wear a story—one shaped by craftsmanship, conscious sourcing and respect for human dignity.

From the artisanal miner who responsibly extracts the precious metal, to the goldsmith who carefully shapes every detail by hand, each pair reflects a chain of people whose skills deserve to be valued and celebrated.

Perhaps that is the future of luxury. Not simply owning something beautiful, but choosing something beautiful that honours both people and planet.

And perhaps it is time for cufflinks to step back into the spotlight.

The post Bespoke Cufflinks: Refined Expression appeared first on Saskia Shutt.

Responsible Mining vs. Recycled Gold

Saskia Shutt — Sun, 18 May 2025 10:15:35 +0000

As a goldsmith and designer working with precious metals for over two decades, I am often asked: “Why do you choose Fairmined gold over recycled gold?” Or: “Isn’t recycled gold the most ethical choice?”

These questions are important. I am glad people ask them.

To answer properly, we need to look at where our gold comes from. There are two main types of mining: artisanal small-scale mining (ASM) and large-scale mining (LSM).

Understanding ASM and LSM

Large-Scale Mining in a Nutshell

LSM refers to industrial mining operations carried out by multinational or large national companies. These operations are highly mechanised, relying on heavy machinery and advanced technology rather than manual labour. They’re managed by corporate entities that bring in their own teams of engineers, geologists, and specialised workers, often from outside the local area. While LSM can generate significant profits and export revenues, the communities living near these vast mining sites rarely see tangible benefits. Jobs for locals are limited, and the promised infrastructure or social investment often fails to materialise. The scale of extraction is enormous — machines dig deep into the earth, carve open-pit mines, or even flatten entire mountains to access mineral-rich seams beneath the surface. Impacting the environment is equally as large, with deforestation, loss of biodiversity, water pollution, and land degradation becoming ongoing concerns.

Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining

ASM is a world apart from large-scale industrial operations. Human, hands-on, and deeply interwoven with local livelihoods. These miners — often families or small groups — use rudimentary tools, guided by knowledge passed down through generations. Physical, labour-intensive work, and frequently perilous. Yet it’s also a source of pride, resilience, and survival in many regions.

Despite producing only around 20% of the world’s newly mined gold, ASM supports far more people than industrial mining ever does. An estimated 40 to 50 million people work directly in ASM worldwide, with over 150 million more depending on it indirectly. Through trade, transport, food supply, or other services linked to mining communities.

However, there’s a harder side to this story too and ASM is not without challenges. Without proper support or regulation, ASM can cause serious harm. In many regions, using mercury to extract gold from ore is the main ingredient. Inevitably contaminating soil, rivers, and the health of entire communities. Cyanide, too, is sometimes misused. Furthermore, because many ASM sites are in remote, conflict-prone, or lawless areas, miners may face exploitation — caught in cycles of debt, controlled by criminal groups or local militias, or subjected to unsafe and inhumane working conditions.

This is why initiatives like Fairmined (South America), Fairtrade (South America), Peace Gold (Africa), and Mercury Free Mining (Africa) exist. Supporting ASM communities to mine more safely and sustainably.

Supporting the Good in ASM

Even with the challenges facing artisanal mining, there are powerful efforts to change things. One of the most impactful is Fairmined — a certification system developed by the Alliance for Responsible Mining supporting small-scale mining communities in Latin America. Helping miners operate legally, safely, and sustainably, offering training, environmental protection, fair pay, and investment in their communities.

Before a mine becomes Fairmined certified, it must first meet the standards of the CRAFT Code — an initial step ensuring basic legal, social, and environmental criteria are met. Only then can a mine progress toward full Fairmined certification. Involving strict requirements for traceability, responsible practices, and mercury-free extraction.

At present, there are just eight Fairmined certified gold mines in the world: four in Peru, three in Colombia, and one in Ecuador. This small number highlights how rigorous the standard is — and how meaningful the certification truly is. In 2018 Fairmined certified a mine in Mongolia, However, it lost it’s certification fairly quickly. Due to Chinese Government not wanting the mine to work according to the Fairmined standard. They would not gain any money from the mine’s proceeds due to the Fairmined standard.

When I buy Fairmined gold, I know exactly where it comes from. Mining with care for people and planet, without mercury, and with a clear, traceable path from mine to maker. In addition, Fairmined is not just a label — it’s a commitment to real, visible change.

What About Recycled Gold?

Currently we’re hearing that recycled gold is the most ethical or ecological choice. I disagree.

Recycling Gold exits for centuries. Because gold is valuable, it’s rarely thrown away. We’ve been melting it down and reusing it since it’s discovery by ancient civilisations as early as 4000 BC.

Remembering recycled gold is initially mined before it becomes components in IT or the jewellery industry. Moreover, the definition for recycled gold is not clear-cut. In reading the LMBA the definition, it is very broad and, in my opinion, needs to be tighter/more defined. Above all, the refining of gold and other precious metals is done by using high quantity of energy and various acids during the separation and refining. They also fail to mention initiatives such as Fairmined, Fairtrade, Peace Gold and Mercury Free Mining in their report, when talking about ASM.

Currently, the world has enough mined gold to fill five Olympic swimming pools. But only about 10% is accessible. The rest is locked up in jewellery, banks, electronics, or medical tools.

Recycling that gold does not reduce the demand for new mining. We’re still extracting more. The mountain grows. China demands approximately 26% of the national gold demand Europe’s demand is approximately 12% .

Refining Is Not Clean

Gold recycling is not a clean process. Refineries use huge amounts of energy and strong acids to extract and purify gold. It’s resource-intensive.

What about the source of the recycled gold? That’s a bit murky.

Refineries buy from pawnshops. They buy from people who’ve had their homes burgled. Some recycled gold comes from illegal mining, made into jewellery and passed through pawnshops. It ends up back at the refinery and is resold to jewellers — labelled as “recycled”.

Where’s the traceability? Or the transparency?

So when I hear recycled gold called ethical or ecological, I feel deeply uneasy. There is not enough transparency in the recycling of precious metals. I believe we need more legislations on transparency within the recycled precious metals refineries.

It’s also worth mentioning something I feel strongly about: personally, I don’t consider remodelling old gold jewellery as “recycled gold”. I do a lot of remodelling and transformation work for my clients — it’s one of the most beautiful and meaningful aspects of my work. But to me, calling that recycled isn’t accurate. The term “recycled gold” is still far too loosely defined and widely misused. In my experience, remodelling is almost always born out of sentimental or financial motivations — not environmental ones. People come to me because they want to honour family heirlooms, repurpose inherited jewellery, or give something old a new life — not necessarily because they’re seeking to reduce mining or environmental impact. And I believe that distinction matters.

I’m Not Against Recycling

To be clear: I do use recycled platinum and palladium, these I buy from Argentor refinery and bullion dealer in Antwerp. They are a reputable firm. I also bring my scrap there for refining. It makes the loop feel more circular.

Recycling is a standard practice within a jewellery workshop. Throwing away scrap or filings is unacceptable. Reclaiming precious metals is a circular way of working. Most importantly, practicing recycling of precious metals is centuries old.

In conclusion, recycled gold is not the solution to the world’s gold problem. Recycling is part of a complex system. Above all, it doesn’t replace the need for responsible mining.

A Call for Informed Choices

Giving consumers in-depth information is important for them to make valid choses. However, I am not saying that responsible mining is perfect. But it does support peoples’ livelihoods all along the short supply chain.

They deserve to make informed decisions. To know where their gold comes from. And knowing whether it supports real people, real communities — or just hides the past.

When talking about sustainability in fashion, we talk about slow fashion. I believe adding slow mining as a concept is paramount to sustainability too. Subsequently, for a more sustainable world, capping/limiting the LSM production (which I realise is utopic) is vital, as LSM are huge money-grabbing corporations). Focussing on ASM for longevity in a sustainable world.

Fairmined gold is the embodiment of slow mining. It’s respectful, thoughtful, and deliberate. Empowering communities. Creating change.

Governments in Peru and Colombia have already banned mercury in mining. It’s the illegal, informal mining that still uses it. These are hard areas to regulate. But they are only a small part of ASM. We don’t even have exact data on how much.

So why not support the miners who are doing it right?

Let’s Support a Better Future

In conclusion, I beleive, Fairmined, Fairtrade, Peace Gold, and Mercury-Free Mining all work to create a better way forward.

By supporting these projects, we are contributing to:

Fair wages
Safe mining conditions
Environmental protection
Community investment
Education for miners’ children
Social security and life insurance

Giving families a future. We’re turning gold into a force for good.

I believe that’s worth supporting. Let’s create your jewellery ideas.

The post Responsible Mining vs. Recycled Gold appeared first on Saskia Shutt.

What Fairmined Means to Me

Saskia Shutt — Sun, 26 Jan 2025 21:03:20 +0000

What Fairmined Means to Me

A Commitment to Responsibility

Fairmined is more than a certification. It’s a commitment to ethical and sustainable jewellery-making. As a jeweller, I create meaningful pieces with a positive impact. They help me uphold these values. But it’s not just about jewellery—it’s about the people behind it: the miners.

Fairmined ensures miners earn fair wages and work in safe conditions. It gives them dignity and security. Too often, mining is dangerous and exploitative. Fairmined changes this. It allows miners to build a future for their families and communities.

The impact goes beyond today. Fairmined miners restore the land they work on. They rebuild ecosystems and leave a healthier world for future generations. They don’t just mine—they create a sustainable future.

By choosing Fairmined gold, I support responsible mining. I contribute to fair wages, sustainability, and environmental protection. This is why this certification means so much to me.

Fairmined teaches mining communities to restore the land they work on. They rebuild ecosystems and leave a cleaner, healthier world for the next generation. These miners don’t just earn a living—they’re building a future that ensures their children inherit a sustainable, thriving environment.

Through Fairmined, I’m not just creating jewellery. I’m part of a global movement that empowers miners to create better lives. It’s about helping them earn a living while leaving a legacy of sustainability, fairness, and a safer world. That’s what makes Fairmined gold so meaningful to me.

Large-Scale Mining (LSM) vs. Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining (ASM)

Gold mining falls into two categories: Large-Scale Mining (LSM) and Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining (ASM).

LSM is controlled by multinational corporations. These companies extract gold using heavy machinery, creating massive open-pit mines. They bring in their own engineers and workers. The wealth generated rarely benefits local communities. Instead, profits flow to corporate headquarters far from the mining sites.

ASM accounts for 20% of global gold production. However, it directly employs around 45 million miners. An estimated 150 million people depend on ASM for survival. These communities live in remote areas where mining is often the only livelihood.

Unlike LSM, ASM keeps wealth within local communities. Fairmined supports ASM miners by giving them access to fair prices and ethical markets. Without Fairmined, many small-scale miners would have to sell gold at unfair prices or work in unsafe conditions.

Why not Recycled Gold?

Recycled gold is often seen as the most sustainable option. But is it?

Illegal gold easily enters the recycled gold market. Stolen jewellery disappears into the recycling process. Any jeweller who has experienced a robbery knows this. The sustainability of recycled gold is only surface deep.

Recycling gold does not reduce mining. Gold is tied to currency and the stock market, so the demand for newly mined gold will always exist.

Recycled gold does not support mining communities. It does not create jobs, improve working conditions, or fund social projects. Fairmined does all of this and more.

I am not against recycled gold. It has been part of our industry for centuries. Gold is precious and never wasted. However, we cannot look at it as the only solution. We must ensure ethical ASM remains a viable livelihood. Fairmined ensures responsible mining while protecting people and the planet.

Visiting the Mines

Visiting Fairmined mines in Peru and Colombia was eye-opening. At the Oro Puno mine, I saw sustainable mining in action. Water used in mining is cleaned and reused. The extracted earth is stored and refilled to restore the land. These areas become green zones, bringing back local flora and fauna.

In Colombia, I met the Chede miners. A husband-and-wife team, Sebastian and Anny, run the mine. They treat workers like family. The mine funds community projects, including a retirement home, housing, and a playground. They even use extracted rocks to improve local infrastructure. Their commitment to sustainability extends beyond mining—they purchased 1,000 acres of Amazon rainforest to protect it.

Eco-Certified Mining Practices

Fairmined champions sustainable mining. Unlike conventional mining, Fairmined mines avoid toxic chemicals like mercury and cyanide. Miners use traditional, low-impact methods such as panning. This reduces environmental harm and improves worker safety.

Fairmined mines also embrace innovation. Electric shaking tables, powered by solar energy, separate gold using gravity instead of chemicals. This reduces energy consumption and lowers the mine’s carbon footprint.

Promoting Gender Equality in Mining

Gender equality is central to Fairmined. I met incredible women miners and engineers shaping the future of mining. Fairmined promotes equal opportunities, breaking down barriers for women in the industry.

Fairmined is more than ethical gold. It’s a movement. It promotes sustainability, protects the environment, and empowers people—regardless of gender. Through Fairmined, I’m not just making jewellery. I’m part of a global effort to create a fairer, greener world.

Joining the Movement

When clients choose my jewellery made with Fairmined eco gold or Fairmined silver, they join a bigger mission. They support sustainable mining and help empower communities. Together, we make a difference.

This is what Fairmined means to me: sustainability, responsibility, and the power to create positive change.

The post What Fairmined Means to Me appeared first on Saskia Shutt.